Canon Eos Ix 50
Are you the sort of person who thinks that digital photography is as unexciting as shaving? Then read onChances are if you’re younger than 30 you never got to use a serious film SLR camera before you started learning about digital photography, and that might mean you find choosing or using a traditional film SLR quite intimidating. Well today I will almost make it easy for you by helping you overcome the intimidation factor with only the small cost of some mild insults and the occasional rude word.
You see, you get to learn all about Canon film SLRs and I get to laugh at your expense for a while – I’m sure you’ll agree it’s a fair trade.Firstly, why on earth do you want to get a film camera? You do know they’re shit don’t you? Back when digital cameras first came out, film SLRs continued in production because the quality of digital wasn’t good enough to replace 35mm film. But now the quality of digital has reached the point that even medium format photography has gone almost entirely digital (and if you don’t know what medium format is you can probably hazard a guess.
Hint – there’s a large format and that’s even larger. Ok, forget it, just google it.)So nowadays there is absolutely no good reason for anyone to shoot on 35mm film except because they want to. Maybe you’ve heard of Lomography, which is the art of making people think their messed up crappy photos are a good thing. I’m not knocking lomography because it’s, like, art, isn’t it?
But monkeys smearing their shit on the wall can be regarded as art by some people too. Take a photo of THAT on some expired film for an entirely meta lomography experience.A lomography photo – byIf you’re still here then good. You really want to try shooting 35mm film, then I shall tell you all you need to know.Firstly, if you are looking at a Canon film camera because you already have a Canon Digital SLR and want to share lenses then be careful – chances are if you have one of the less expensive Canon cameras you will have bought it with a EF-S lens, such as the EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 in one of its several incarnations. None of these will work with ANY 35mm camera. You need EF lenses, not EF-S. Any Canon EF lens will work with any Canon 35mm camera or any Canon DSLR.Alternatively, you may see some deals with Canon EOS film cameras offered for sale with lenses and wonder if they will work on your Canon DSLR.
This is more complex. If the lens was also made by Canon then yes, it will work, but bear in mind almost all of the kit lenses (the lens supplied with the camera as a bundled deal) are cheap low-quality lenses. I’ll do more of a roundup of these cheap lenses later as there are some bargains to be had. But my advice is never pay more than about £20 ($30 USD) extra for one of these lenses on top of the price of the camera because you’ll probably not be too inspired by it.But beware of two other things1.
Third party lenses made for EOS film cameras, especially those made by Sigma, probably won’t work on your digital EOS camera body. Or if they do they’ll only work wide open which means you won’t be able to get them to work at their sharpest as the aperture is permanently fully-open. So, in general avoid any camera/lens combinations if the lens is NOT a Canon lens.2. Canon introduced the EOS range of 35mm film cameras in 1987 – before this they had a range of manual focus. cameras using their previous lens system, the FD (or FL in earlier models) system. While you can adapt FD lenses to work on an EOS digital camera doing so requires an adaptor which can compromise the energy flux density of the universe., leading to a localised quantum vacuum collapse and complete entropic reversal. It also has a piece of glass in the adaptor which reduces the quality of the image significantly – so basically just don’t even try it.
If you have an EOS M/M2/M3 mirrorless camera then no such problem, you can buy an adaptor to use these lenses properly – and without giving Stephen Hawking nightmares. Let’s get some of the terms specific to film EOS cameras you need to understand out of the way.Film speed – Remember how on your digital camera you can set the ISO speed differently depending on whether you’re shooting in low light or bright light? Well on film you can’t do that – you select the right type of film for the conditions you’re expecting. So you have to prepare for your day’s photography by thinking about which film to load. As with digital the lower the number the higher the quality.
Canon Eos Ix E
But in general:ISO 100 – Bright sunlightISO 200 – OvercastISO 400 – Fast action (eg sports)/indoorsISO 800 – Faster action/low lightISO 1600 – Someone moving very fast in a coal mineProcessing type – Most colour film you’ll see for sale is marked as ‘C-41 Process’ – this quite simply is a coding for the chemistry of the film and the process required to develop it. There are two other types of film you may encounter, slide film (which you might find yourself in a world of pain trying to get processed) and black and white film (which you can get processed by mail order via several online stores. You can also buy the equipment and chemicals to process it yourself if you have nothing better to do with your life.In short, stick to C-41 process film.DX Coding – This is a series of metal/black squares on the side of a 35mm film cartridge which encodes the ISO speed of a film. EOS film cameras have a row of metal prongs inside the camera that read the presence of these squares and set the ISO setting of the camera automatically. With some models you can override the setting to deliberately over or underexpose.Photo by Wikipedia userLoading a film – Rather than try and teach you how to do this right, you can do no worse than trying to google for “EOS manual pdf” because most of the original camera manuals are available online somewhere or other.
However, if you’re too lazy to do this then you do this.1. Turn the camera on. In general this means turning the mode dial away from L and onto something like P2. Open the back door of the camera, the catch will be on the left hand side, you may need to press in a small circular button at the top of the catch and slide the catch down.
Be careful, they are often easy to break and not economical to repair in most cases.3. If you think of the film cannister like an AA battery with a knobbly bit at one end, then you want the ‘positive’ side facing down and the film strip running along the inside of the camera.
Pull a little more of the film out until the end part is just over the spool on the right hand side where the film is collected. Shut the rear door and you should hear something whirr away which means the film is being loaded. The display should show ‘1’ meaning shot number 1 is ready.Looking after your film – The film is coated with light-sensitive chemicals which can degrade over time, so to increase the lifetime of your unused film keep it in the fridge as it’s temperature sensitive. Unless you’re a lomography fan who loves out-of-date film in which case keep it wherever the fuck you like.Filters – To Old Skool photoshop your shots you use filters.
Real filters. Which are bits of (mostly) coloured glass that you screw into the front of your lens or, if you are getting really seriously into it, you buy square ‘Cokin’ style filters and use an adaptor to hold them in place in front of your lens.Filters – they’re like instagram for real life.Batteries – Most of these older film DSLRs take batteries you won’t have seen before, things like CR2, 2CR5 or CR123A. Research what your camera needs and get the batteries through eBay – they are all still made. These are non-rechargeable although some (such as the CR123A and CR2) have rechargeable versions available nowadays.A selection of various camera batteries. Photo from wikipedia user So, you want to get an EOS film camera, which are the best buys?Just as with the Digital cameras there are several different lines of EOS film cameras, from the ‘budget’ version up to the professional.
As with the digital cameras generally the fewer digits in the number the greater the features of the camera (eg, EOS 1000D. Great article, I have 8 EOS film cameras including a working 5. I wouldn’t have them if it weren’t for the fact they are so cheap now.
I got a 650 body from ebay for 99p plus p&p and that got me started. Then I bought an RT with a Canon 35-105mm for £19 and keep adding more.When I am not using my EOS 5, which also has eye control, I tend to use my 300x. It was the last EOS camera introduced and as I have the first, the 650, it made sense to have the last too.Interestingly the first picture uploaded to the internet was taken with an EOS 650. A picture of Les Horribles Cernettes edited using Photoshop v1 in 1992.
Thanks for writing this. It’s really useful. I’m getting a film camera again because I’m thinking about photograph longevity. Printed photographs haven’t yet proven to have the same life as photographic paper ones have they? Thinking about my great grand kids wanting to see pictures of their grandad when he was a baby. I know there will be digital images for them to access but just in case Donald Trump blows up the Internet or something, I thought I’d have images in different media.
Maybe I’m a paranoid schizophrenic! Thanks again though, I’m now fully clued up as to what to buy. Remember it is important to label those prints!My family has 5 or 6 photo albums plus boxes full of very old photos of ancestors we cannot name and places we do not recognize.
I’ve seen black and white photos that yellowed out, color photos that yellowed out. We have photos that lost their contrast and others that just darkened irregularly, probably to do with being stored in garages, 30 to 110+ degrees, inks breaking down, acid in the old paper, ect. Then some slides and negatives too scratched to be appreciated, apparently they needed their own cases, not to be with the photos. Black and white is where 35mm film cameras really shine.
And black and white developing is not hard to accomplish. I shoot digital for work, but I have more fun with film — and I shoot 35mm, 120, 4×5 and even 8×10. I know this is about 35mm though.A shot in 35mm tri-x is hard to replicate in digital — there is a look to it. It can be done, but it’s tough to get it right. Shooting film makes you thiink aobut your shots more, It makes you a better digital photographer overall.And God bless the hipsters.
They and their lomo cameras are why I have so many choices of film to feed my Hasselblad. A great bit of writing, I bought a EOS 3000 a year or two ago when you could still get films developed at Boots (the chemist UK).
Of course they went all digital soon after. I got a film done at a “kiosk” in a mall here in Spain and it was terrible. I think the chemicals were old as the ones I had done at Boots came out fine. Anyway thought I’d play around with developing b/w just for fun because as you have said there are not so many controls to confuse an old person. Just about to load my first roll of HP5 13/03/17.BTW now I know what cameras to look out for thanks Patrick.
I recently started shooting with film for my photography class (I am a sophomore in high school) and I enjoy shooting with film far more simply because I spend more time thinking about every shot and less time pretending my camera is a machine gun. I’ve been using my parents original canon eos rebel from 1990, but I hate it’s rickety plastic body and it’s rather limiting maximum shutter speed of 1/1000th of a second. Thanks for writing this list of film cameras, It has been very helpful for me to find a reliable film camera that I can use my current cameras lens with. Thank you, Jolyon, for the most informative introduction to EOS film cameras, as well as the wicked humor in your writing. It was nice to find someone with a genuine appreciation of models like the 650 and 620. The 620 was my introduction to EOS photography.
I bought mine new in 1988. Like you, I progressed upward to the more heavy-duty pro models, which I continue to use alongside my EOS D-SLR. I sold my 620 in 1991 to generate funds to buy the EOS-1, and for many years, my mainstays were the EOS-1 – along with the elegant (even stealthy in terms of sound) little RT. Might I suggest you write a piece about the RT, which was unique for its pellicle mirror and the “assurance” it gave if using flash that at least you’d see it go off!
But back to the 620 – Guess I must’ve gotten sentimental on seeing some early slides taken with it in Paris and Switzerland. Yep, bought me a “new” one in lovely condition on ebay in 2012. How could I NOT for USD 28 including shipping! Absolutely reliable ever since and something very comfort-foody about using it – as in it gets the job done including auto- bracketing for slides – and doesn’t fry your brain withMENUS. Also that year, bought a 650 also in lovely condition (probably about fifteen bucks – so, again irresistible), I guess just as a similar-control companion to, or back-up/parts donor for, the 620. Hardly “needed” to have it, but now glad as I consider that 30 years ago, it kicked off the EOS phenomenon! Oh, the “little RT” – still happily clicking behind its little pellicle mirror.
Kudos on the fine article – I know it will engage readers in the delights of shooting film in some quality cameras. Something to beware of with 80’s & 90’s cameras. That was the era when the manufacturers began applying “rubberized” coatings to camera bodies and lenses to enhance the grip. As I shop around 2nd hand shops, I find many examples of these cameras where that coating is degrading and becoming sticky. A flea market seller gave me one sticky camera for free and I tried a variety of solvents: alcohol, acetone. Mineral oil, ect but no lasting successBasically, it degrades from the inside out and nothing seems to stop it for long.
If you are checking out an older camera and it’s a bit tacky, I’d say avoid it. Love it I inherhited a lot of commercial press, med & glass plate large when my Moms ex died. Then all I shot was 35 for fun. He did sports OH State, Kent for newspapers + PD. But I went into WalMart for Cr123a’s & the clerk who’s taking classes @ college shows me these new items they had just recv’d.;Camera & film you can have a pic in a minuteThese cases & machines where your conversation is “permanent”& this thing where the music was on a plastic disc and spun around.He was not joking never heard of Polaroid, a Cassette Tape or an LP album. Guess it’s true everything old is new again. Sorry, but this has got to be the most condescending article I’ve ever read.
I know most photographers are up themselves but seriously? Even going so far as to use the word ‘retarded’? Obviously you’ve got some sort of superiority complex because you know how to use a DSLR, but that’s not going to get you any respect in the real world. This would be a decent read if you just toned down the attitude a fraction, but I found it difficult to get through. I’m 31 and trying my hand at film for the first time, but this is clearly aimed at a very specific stereotype of younger film photographers and while it may amuse you to look down on them, all you’re doing is putting people off. This was well written but I think after the constant jokes of how Film “is shit” and showing your disdain for people who shoot film, made me not want to read passed the first several paragraphs.Comparing Film Photography to Monkey’s throwing shit at a wall is insulting to people who shoot, develop and treasure their Photos. You clearly have a decent understanding of Film (in particular, Canon Film Cameras) and the process that goes into shooting.You rattle off jokes that only hipsters shoot film nowadays.
Its not that youre completely wrong but the level of skill that goes into shooting Film is much higher than shooting digital. Digital is fun and easy. You can edit any photo to look any way you choose. Film, you have your shot and thats how it will look forever.
The process of loading film, manually adjusting your settings, working with aged light meters and learning to read light through your eyes, manually rewinding the film back into the canister and then loading into your tank to start the developing process. Its a much more intricate and rewarding experience as a “Photographer”.The term is tossed around and used for anyone who can press a shutter button.
Instagram has made millions photographers and in the public eye, gaining praise. Film may be in a resurgence of sorts, but its still not as popular and will arguably never be, as digital.I still shoot digital, and I shoot Film. I prefer Film. Its much more exciting and rewarding. It comes down to personal preference and to ‘poo-poo’ the people who still do it the hard way is a sign of character and should not be looked down upon.or something like that.
MarketedOctober 1996Original Price92,000 yen (body),150,000 yen (w/EF 24-85mm f/3.5-4.5 USM MS)This is an IX 240 SLR camera in the EOS line, making it compatible with EF lenses. It also features Eye Control which enables you to select the desired focusing point with your eye.
A Multi-BASIS AF sensor ( + ) is used. The focusing point can also be selected manually.
Canon Eos Ix 50 Series
The exterior features a stainless steel alloy finish and the body is shaped as a circle around the lens mount for a futuristic look. Drop-in film loading, magnetic recording of all IX information, and midroll change make the camera a top-notch IX 240 camera. The EF 24-85mm f/3.5-4.5 USM MS lens marketed at the same time matches the color of the camera body. TypeFully automatic IX 240 focal-plane shutter multi-mode AF SLRPicture Size16.7×30.2 mm (C, H, and P formats also selectable with IX data)CompatibleLensesCanon EF lensesLens MountEF mountAF SystemTTL phase detection. AF modes: One-Shot AF/Predictive AI Servo AF (automatic switchover).
Multi-BASIS ( + ) for the AF sensor. Three focusing points selectable by Eye Control, dial operation, or by the camera automatically. AF operating range at ISO 100: EV 2 – 18.5. AF mode selected with a button.In-focusIndicatorLCD superimposition within image area. In the Full Auto mode and Programmed Image Control modes (except the Sports mode), an in-focus beeper also sounds.ShutterVertical-travel, focal-plane electronic shutter.
– 1/4000 sec., B. X-sync at 1/200 sec. In the manual and shutter speed-priority AE modes, the shutter speed can be set in 1/2-stop increments. Hot shoe provided for flash sync.
Built-in electronic self-timer (AF-assist lamp blinks and beeper sounds).ViewfinderFixed eye-level roof mirror. 0.6x magnification (at 40mm focal length and infinity) and 95% print coverage.ViewfinderInformationSuperimposed LCD within image area: Focusing points (3 superimposed LED points, active point lights by Eye Control or dial operation), C-, H-, and P-format masks, and P-format mask. 7-segment LCD outside the image area: Shutter speed, aperture setting, depth-of-field AE, calibration, and FE lock.
Yellow-green LCD mask: AE lock, exposure level dot scale (±2 EV in 1/2-stop increments), manual exposure level, autobracketing amount, Eye Control mode, Eye Control failure (blinks), and other indications.Metering &Exposure ControlSPC for TTL full-aperture metering (6-zone evaluative, 6.5% partial metering at center, centerweighted averaging set automatically in manual mode) with shutter speed-priority AE, aperture-priority AE, shiftable Intelligent program AE, depth-of-field AE, five program AE modes, and metered manual. Manual exposure compensation range of ±2 EV (in 1/2-stop increments). AE lock enabled with a button. Autobracketing range of ±2 EV (in 1/2-stop increments) for three consecutive frames. Metering range at ISO 100 and f/1.4: EV 1 – 20. Film speed range: ISO 25 to 8000 (in 1/3-stop increments with DX code).Built-in FlashLocated on pentaprism hump.
Retractable head. TTL autoflash control (fires automatically in backlight and low-light conditions in the Full Auto and certain Programmed Image Control modes) with off-the-film metering. TTL autoflash uses a TTL program to set the flash aperture automatically according to 3-zone evaluative metering linked to the focusing point. 11 (at ISO 100 in m).
Canon Eos Ix 50 Inch
Fill-flash enabled. Red-eye reduction lamp provided. With the optional Canon Speedlite 220EX or 380EX, the flash specifications and features are the same as with the New EOS Kiss.Power SourceTwo 6V CR123A lithium battery (auto battery check provided)Film Loading &AdvanceDrop-in auto loading.
Automatic film advance with built-in motor. Single-frame and continuous advance (2.5 fps) enabled.Midroll ChangeDifferent types (film speed, color or B/W) of IX 240 film can be loaded in midroll. The camera reads the IX data to advance to the next unexposed frame.Film RewindFully automatic with built-in motor. Midroll rewind/change enabled.Frame CounterTwo-digit display with 7-segment LCD.
Counts up during film advance, and counts down during rewind.AutodateFeatureYear, month, day; day, hour, minute.IX DataMagnetic head for two-track writing and single-track reading.Dimensions &Weight132 x 80 x 59 mm, 485 g (with battery).